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Thursday, August 10, 2006

I hate CNN.

[Setting: stuck in the airport in Costa Rica.  Flight's been delayed an hour.  Little signs all over the place saying no liquids.  No liquids??? What the ---?  Fine.  I don't have any liquids.  Well, except some sunblock; it's sorta liquidy because it's been sitting in the sun and it melted.  No sunblock.  Good Lord, you've got to be kidding me.  Is it a terrorist plot to give all us white people skin cancer?  What will they come up with next?]

Anyway, as I was saying: I hate CNN.  I'm watching it on the airport TV.  At least the sound is off but that makes it even more infuriating because you just notice the images they use.  They actually had a screenshot of a city (probably London) and an airport with a target site superimposed over it!  (did you see this? I forget what you call it.  The thing in guns for aiming?  yeah...).  If images speak louder than words, the message is clear: you are all targets.  Be afraid.  Be very afraid.  Arm yourselves!  Kill them (or let us do it for you with your tax money) before they kill you!  I can see the children's books now: The Muslim under the Bed.

Is there not some kind of quota for idiocy in the world?  Haven't we reached it yet? 

I want to resign from the human race.  Where do I turn my card in?

Thursday, July 27, 2006

the view from here: a social theory of relativity

So once again I have two hours to kill until my next interview.   I sit down on a little park bench and a teenage boy who lives in one of the houses I tried to interview at, comes up.  (I say tried, they were another family who had to be replaced eventually).  I noticed when I first met him at his house that he was very odd but I couldn't put my finger on why exactly.  He was sorta always grinning and at first I thought he was just being sorta the cocky teenager, laughing at my accent and what I was doing (trying to convince them to let me interview them).  He'd never met a gringa and wow I spoke English and that's so wild!  Imaginate!  Still.  He was a little over the top.

Anyway yesterday he came up and sat down with me and we had a long conversation and started ask ing me a million questions like what was it I was doing again and what was a non-profit organization and what was it like in the US? and did I live in New Jersey? And had I ever smoked marijuana? He's on some kind of pills but he doesn't like them but he takes them because the doctor said to and what kind of music do I like he likes rap and reggae and is the US very developed do they have lots of things there and why didn't I like that word developed, he meant advanced, was the US very advanced and why didn't I like that word either and did I have a boyfriend and why wasn't I married yet and he just broke up with his girlfriend why because of lack of communication and how old was I and no way could I be thirty years old I look like I'm in my twenties and I must have lots of experience for being thirty and really am I really thirty do I take a lot of care of my skin and could he have my phone number?

Later his mom passed by and I walked with her a bit.  It seems he does have some kind of mental illness.  (I didn't ask, she offered).  I said I was sorry.

But another part of the conversation involved an description of racism in the US.  Remember he said he liked rap and reggae?  So he heard the n-word (which I'm not typing or I'll get even more racist Google searches leading to this blog) and so he wanted to know what the word meant.  I said it was very complicated and that what it means depends on who's using it and how.  He really didn't get that, I think, so I tried to explain the history of the word to the best of my knowledge but I didn't get very far because he kept cutting me off.  Then he asked me something that surprised me a bit but it requires some explanation. 

In Spanish, you might know that people use words that describe physical appearance a lot.  Gordita (chubby -femenine diminutive), flaco (skinny -masculine), mono (light-skinned sorta, or pale or sometimes "cute"), morenito (dark skinned -masculine diminutive), including negro or negrito.  It's not rude to do this as far as I can tell -calling someone gordita, for example- it's like a term of affection sorta.  But being a gringa it's hard for me not to feel awkward using these terms and so I tend to avoid them.  (There are lots of words like this I think.  Some things just sound funny coming from a foreign mouth so best to stick to the rules more or less)

Anyway, in this case, though, I did use the term los negros together with afro-americanos because I didn't know if he'd understand me [insert background info here: Chile, by the way, is very homogenenous supposedly, not like Colombia for example where there's tons of people from African-Carribean descent because of the slave trade.  In Chile people are mostly of mixed European indigenous descent if you don't count the immigrant populations.  They are also have their racism, though it differs from our version of racism in the US.  Here, the main minority group that's discriminated against are indians.  In fact that's the exception to the above examples of describing someone by the physical characteristics.  Calling someone an indian, or indio is unfortunately an insult, like in many Latin American countries.  Also, someone here explained to me that "indigenous" is not far removed from "indian" so don't use that either.  I used that term, indigenous populations but he said not to.  Better to use the term "original peoples".  So anyway, there's lots of racism against anyone with darker shades of skin but there's very few black people.  I only saw one black person here and he was probably a gringo too.  By the way, there's also neo-nazi groups here who regularly appear in the news.  So all that is to explain that it's likely this kid had never seen a black person in his small town.  Which leads to his question].  Who are the black people?  Us? he asked.  Not really, I explain, the people whose ancestors came from Africa as slaves.  And there's lots of racism in the US? he asked. Yes, we have a long history and many problems ... and the conversation whirrled on.

All this is just to say it's interesting to find oneself asked to describe these things to someone within a different system.  It's an interesting experience.  Distance both distorts and clarifies.  It's like the description I just wrote of Chile, which is of course the perception of a gringa, someone from the outside.  It's different from what someone from here would write.  I don't think it's wrong to talk about terms or situations that are not our own, we just have to be aware of 1.) the power imbalance within the history of white people doing that (describing and interpretting other people's cultures) and 2.)remember that a description is not just a description, it's a description from a certain perspective, a certain point of view.  And that that perspective, that point of view changes the way the thing looks.  Call it the social theory of relativity. 

Or something like that.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

interviewing Chilean style

So I was supposed to be on the overnight bus back to Santiago by now but the oh-so-timely Marcos (the student in Costa Rica who's acting as our coordinator and statistics guy) helpfully reminded me at the last possible second that I need to do the employee interviews.  I'd forgotten about them.  They have to be people outside of the national office I think so that means there's only two possible people I can interview and one of them is here in Copiapo.  So I had to stay.  Which is good because it gives me one more chance to try to get some information from the files which is another thing we're supposed to be doing.  Seeing what kind of information the local offices collect on the families they build houses for.  It's also good because it's once again flooding down south with all the rain and it's snowing now in parts of the capital.  I am NOT cut out for cold, wet, snowy weather.

Doing the archive research here was really frustrating because in addition to the five hundred sixty eight thousand OTHER problems that they have here they're also immensely disorganized.  I was supposed to go to the regional office (about an hour away from here) on Monday but she told me no, the files weren't there.  She had taken them to her friend's mom's house.  We go there and she remembers oh! right!  Her friend's mom is away on vacation so we can't get into her house.  We ask the neighbor for the key who of course doesn't want to give it to us because she doesn't know us but finally after using up all the minutes on my cell phone calling to get permission she gives us the key.  We get into the house and then she remembers oh! The files aren't here after all.  She took them to the office when someone from headquarters came to check up on things.  At this point I want to strangle the girl.  (And she is a girl, she's only 20-something, which I guess explains the spacey-ness).  So we give up and I tell her not to worry about it (because you know that just goes into the report that they weren't organized enough to have the files available to review, although I don't say this). 

Anyway, I decide to go to Tierra Amarilla, (the mining community where Habitat has the housing project) and my first appointment is with this lady I had made two other appointments with previously and each time she didn't show.  Remembering that this had also happened in the first project I worked in, (that I made four appointments with this lady and finally I figured out that she just didn't want to do the interview) so after the first missed appointment I checked with this woman to make sure she knew it was not an obligatory thing to do the interview and I only wanted her to do if she really wanted to.  Oh no, she said, I want to do it, I'll be here.  So I go today and she's not there.  Why do people do this to me??!!  I can understand not wanting to hurt my feelings and say no directly but I even asked her straight up if she wanted to NOT do the interview, all she had to do was say so.  Plenty of other people here had no problem saying that to me from the start.  Why make me waste my time and energy chasing after her when if she just told me she didn't want to do it, I could have looked for another family to replace her?  I hate that!

Next post I'll tell about another part of the day.

An atypical interview.

Last night I interviewed a man who sat down at the table, offered me something to drink and then proceeded to pour himself a glass of what appeared to be straight vodka!  This is the first time this has happened to me during an interview so I thought it was notable.  It was also interesting as I felt the need to not let the answers stretch out too long lest he become completely drunk by the time we got to the last few questions!  Despite this the interview went well and we had an interesting conversation about the various different terms here in Chile for ladies underwear, a topic which may or may not have been influenced by the amount of liquor consumed during the course of the conversation.

I guess I should be grateful that this was the most extraordinary thing that has happened to me so far on this assignment.

Monday, July 24, 2006

mine your heart out


  mine your heart out 
  Originally uploaded by la vista desde aca.

Ok, so I promised a picture of the mountains.  There's several on my flickr site.  This is one of them.  Like I said, what I want to know is do the mountains that look like giant piles of sand occur naturally or are they an effect of the mining?

Help me out here you environmentalists!

p.s. personally I really like the title of this photo.  I was thinking about what mining does to the heart of the earth and the human tendency towards reckless behavior.  What do you think?

Saturday, July 22, 2006

bad days and the joy of free wi-fi

Oh my, what an intense day!  You would not believe what I have been through today.  Let's just say it's good I have training in conflict resolution... I'm actually very proud I have this skill that I can meet people who are super pissed off and somehow calm them down.  More or less.  I mean mostly, I think anyone who's really, really angry just wants to be listened to.  And I can listen to anybody for at least a little while.  Listening really really helps.  No matter how bad things are if you can listen to the other person... well, in this case it helps that of course the people weren't pissed at me.  They were pissed at Habitat but I am representing Habitat so I think that if the situation wasn't handled with lots of ... what's the word? chutzpah? suavedad? sensibility? whatever, if I hadn't had that it would've been a very uncomfortable situation. 

I don't mean to sound very arrogant here.  I know I do.  I just want to recognize that hey, some things I'm good at.  I'm good at this.  And moreover, someone ought to hire me to do this.  Because I'm in the job market.  Anyone want to hire a gringa who's pretty damn good at handling sensitive situations?  'Cause I'm available after December.  Just so's ya know.

Anyway let me describe the scenery here.  I'm in a little mall.  In Copiapo of course.  After a week of paying 500 pesos an hour for internet access in a cibercafe, I stumbled across a free wi-fi site!  It's in a mall about 200 feet from the hotel I'm staying at (this close and I never even knew!).  Which hotel, by the way, is not really a hotel at all but a "residencial" bien barato (5 mil/noche or about $10/night).  Shared bathroom.  But it comes with a TV!  So I'm seeing Chilean television for the first time! 

Anyway it took me this long to find the wi-fi because I didn't go in the mall until now.  I don't like malls.  But I had such a bad day today (no one came to my focus group! so I was feeling kinda down so I went in the mall to find some nice pastryshop where I could get a chocolate thing and I saw the blessed sign --I swear I heard angels singing!-- and it said servicio wi-fi gratis.  And now I'm eating a chocolate cake that is probably too fancy for me to fully appreciate as it costs the same amount I would normally spend on a main meal but I am happy because 1.) I have wi-fi 2.) I am listening to a bunch of 80s pop music that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside (it's a 30-something thing, you just have to trust me).

Tomorrow I was going to go to the beach again but because I'm an idiot I have to go back to Tierra Amarilla and RETURN THE KEYS TO THE COMMUNITY CENTER that I forgot to return because I was so perturbed by the fact that no one showed up to my focus group!  I hate myself.

You know what else I hate?  I hate that they have no indoor clean air act in Chile.  But I've already complained about that haven't I?

Ok.  I'll shut up now.  I love my job.  I really do.

p.s. I'm listening to Tina Turner right now asking me what love has got to do with it.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

postcard from bahia inglesa


bahia inglesa 12
Originally uploaded by la vista desde aca.

hey everyone!

I'm in a desert!  Never been in a desert before.  Very, very, very first time.  I took advantage of the travel time to get here (12 hours by bus) to visit Bahia Inglesa, a sleepy (during this time of the year) little tourist spot about an hour from the regional capital, Copiapó where I am now.  The last Habitat project I'm visiting is in Tierra Amarilla, a mining town about 15 minutes away.  It's surrounded by mountains and mines.  Just like I got to learn a bit about what life is like earning a living working in the vineyards, now I'm getting to learn about what life is like as a miner!  Fascinating!  You can earn much more money mining but of course it's dangerous and like everything else they contract out a lot of work and it seems like there's no strong union to protect workers rights so the hours are terrible and the work is dangerous and difficult.  These are the famous copper mines Chile is famous for but there's also some gold and silver too.  I have heard that the environmental effects of mining are very bad but I'm hesitant to ask many questions about that.  The one thing I've heard though is that mining carves out the mountain from the inside right? so the mountain collapses onto itself eventually (hopefully not while the people are in there but I don't understand well how they keep that from happening).  Anyway what I'm dying to know though is how much of the scenery here, --how the mountains look, which is different from other mountains I've seen--, how much of that appearance is due to the mining?  I'll take pictures of course to illustrate but the mountains are like dry rock with no vegetation (well, makes sense, it's a desert) but also they are shaped in places like big piles of dry sand.  Very regular and smooth, like when you let sand fall through your fingers on the beach and make little piles on the ground.  That's how the mountains look.  Is that due to the mining you think?  I want to find out.  I'll let you know.  Meanwhile I have 12 interviews done already!  Yay me! ;-)  ... take care everyone!

love, barb

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Lest we forget: Patio 29


  c e m e n t e r i o g r a l 
  Originally uploaded by silencio º~.

Today Chile declared the Patio 29 Cemetary a national monument.  This is where many victims of the dictatorship were buried in unmarked graves during the 70s and 80s.  Between 1973 and 1990 3,000 Chileans were killed or assassinated and 28,000 --excuse me, that number bears repeating-- twenty-eight thousand people were tortured!  Hard to get one's head around such numbers.  Anyway, it's not the first site related to Chile's painful past to be declared a national monument, but it is the latest.  There was some controversy recently recently when they misidentified some of the bodies enterred there but I guess it's a complicated process.

The above is a beautiful photo of the place I found on flickr from a young person here in Santiago, who would be too young probably to remember this era personally but perhaps the youth of Latin America can't afford to be as oblivious to the past as they are in the States. 

If I have time, I'd like to visit this place before I leave the country.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

still sick, longing for desert.

Oh my goodness I hurt so much.  I’m friggin’ miserable!  I wonder if I have pneumonia or something because I don’t usually get so sick for so long.  Probably it’s only that they have some strain of flu down here that my body hasn’t encountered before (and don’t say birdflu! It’s not birdflu! I’m sick of hearing about birdflu!).  Anyway I’ve been like this four days so far.  It’s changed a little bit though since I came down with it.  Now my throat hurts.  It didn’t at first.  And I have these weird sharp pains in my lower back near my kidneys that kind of worry me (but I looked online and the symptoms of pneumonia say you could have sharp pains in your chest and thankgod I don’t have that!).

Anyway it is raining so much here they’ve declared a state of emergency in some parts of the country (the central part where Santiago is, and the south, where Conception is).  There’s flooding and about 10 to 15 people dead.  Two policemen were stranded in a river and disappeared but at least they found one of them alive today.  And the rains continue.  And the roof leaks.  Did I mention that the friggin’ roof leaks here?  That’s probably why I got sick.  It started last Friday night at 3am.  It’s not the roof in my room exactly, it’s the roof in the hallway outside my room, but there’s a window on that side and so what happens is that it’s raining in the hallway (yes, it’s that bad.  Not just one spot.  Many spots.  It looked like it was raining in there!) And the water runs down the walls of the hallway and through the window of my room and down my walls then under my bed and out the door on the other side.

So they sorta fixed it a little bit.  Meaning they did a half-assed job that helps but doesn’t solve the problem so that now it doesn’t leak quite as much but I still have to have a towel shoved up against the window that catches most but not all of the water coming in and I have to be sure there’s nothing on the floor that can’t get wet.

I am not a happy camper right now.  As soon as I’m well enough to endure the 12 hour bus ride I’m heading north.  To Atacama.  Here's why:

The Atacama desert in Chile is as parched as a parson's Sunday sermon. In fact, it's the driest desert in the world. There are parts of it where rain has never been recorded and the precious little precipitation (1cm/0.3in per year) that does fall comes from fog (from Lonely Planet, travel guide online)...

but reading on, I encounter this gem:

it's one of the most spectacular and dramatic landscapes on earth and you'll be flat out like a lizard just taking in all the natural wonder.

lagoons, geysers, volcanos, the valley of the Moon (!)...

Apart from all this eye-candy, the desert is a major magnet for archaeologists; the rainless conditions have left a wealth of intact history behind. Pre-Colombian relics, Incan artifacts and perfectly preserved mummies from the Paleo-Indian civilization are included in the haul, as well as - the smoking of hallucinogenic plants having been favorite pastime among all this trippy scenery - the Incan equivalent of Bongs-R-Us.

geez, c'mon body, you can beat this thing!  Let's get going already!  The camera's all set!

Friday, July 07, 2006

Los Andes

Adobe_wall_rinconada_de_los_andessmI wrote a description of Casablanca so I feel I should write a little one about Los Andes, especially since I took the day off today and will be working instead over the weekend.  Then sometime next week I'll be traveling to Atacama, the northern region where there are a lot of deserts (and apparently the driest place on the planet) so here's a little bit of a word picture of the area I've been hanging out for the past week or so.

Casablanca2_copy Click on the map to make it bigger.  Los Andes is straight north of the Chilean capital, see it?  Next to San Felipe.  Los Andes is quite different from Casablanca.  Casablanca is --sorry to say it-- a bit ugly.  Like I said it's the picture of economic depression.  It reminds me of Flint, Michigan (what a reputation that poor city has!).  Los Andes is ... well, as you can see from the photo (click on it to make it larger) situated a lot closer to the cordillera, the mountain range that is the Andes and it's quite a charming city, maybe even a little touristy (meaning I think there might be touristy parts but I'm not seeing stuff like that where I'm going).  And there are more rich people who live there who maybe work in Santiago but live in Los Andes (which is probably a lot closer if you have a private vehicle and don't have to take the bus). 

It's a lot more spread out than Casablanca is.... or at least the communities where Habitat houses are are a lot more spread out.  What they call Los Andes as in the city proper, I've only been in a couple of times.  Mostly I'm in these smaller surrounding communities: Rinconada (aka Rinconada de los Andes), San Esteban, Calle Larga.  Within each of those communities there are neighborhoods that might also be far from the communities to which they belong.  For example, yesterday I was in Las Cadenas which is this little neighborhood about 20 minute bus ride outside of San Esteban which is about an hour bus ride outside of Los Andes which is an hour and fifteen minute bus ride outside of Santiago.  Got it?  Or as they say here, cachiay? 

So this is why it's taken so long.  And the problem with Calle Larga is that the neighborhood I have to go to has no public transportation during the day.  There's no bus that goes there so that's causing me some problems at the moment but I hope to get it worked out on Monday.

Anyway, Los Andes is very old so you see lots of the classic adobe walls around here, old haciendas and antique houses.  Here there are also the famous (or infamous) copper mines in which some people work but agriculture is more dominant.  In Casablanca it seemed to mostly be vineyards.  Here's a veritable fruit and vegetable basket: apples, peaches, grapes, olives, alfalfa... lots of other stuff I can't think of.  All for export (well, not the alfalfa) but still the dominant industry is las parronas the grapevines.  But people might work in los packing for example, which means they work in the factories packaging the fruit and vegetables for export to the US and other places.  It's the main road to Argentina so a lot of trucks coming from the port in Valparaiso come through here. 

I don't know what else to tell you about Los Andes.  It didn't touch me the way Casablanca did.  It doesn't seem as sad.  Casablanca just seems so sad, so desperately poor... Los Andes is... well, not so badly off I think.  Not that there aren't very poor people there but .. you know.

Anyway I plan on doing a focus group tomorrow and then spending the rest of the weekend seeking out the remaining families that I have left to interview and maybe on Thursday will be traveling to the north.  Probably won't hear from me in awhile.  Have great weekends everyone!

Thursday, July 06, 2006

what can ya do?

I decided to take the day off yesterday.  More or less.  Half the day anyway.  I went out to buy "something pretty" by which I meant a nice skirt because I'm tired of wearing jeans and a sweatshirt so Fanny, my housemate who also works at HfH directed me towards a discount store within walking distance.  I didn't find the skirt of my dreams but I did find a nice sweater ($8) and jacket ($16).  The store was the most desordenado place I'd ever seen.  Clothes on the floor, clothes thrown over the tops of the racks filled with other clothes half off their hangers.  It was a mess.  And there were about 500 people packed in there.  One of the things that drives me crazy about Latin America (most things that are different here I find charming or refreshing or at least interesting, this is one of the few things that actually really annoys me) it's when no matter how many people are packed into a store so that you can barely move or get your shopping cart through they still feel the need to have the full cleaning crew out trying to sweep the floors with those 5 foot wide brooms so that not only do you have to step over and around other people you have to avoid the agressive broom lady who cares less about your feet and more about getting that broom across the entire span of the store's floor in less than 60 seconds!

So when I got up to the counter to pay for my stuff there was a huge line and I was behind a lady and a little boy.  I set my new jacket down on the counter so I could go look at something and I came back and the lady and the boy were just finishing up and I had been waiting a long time and was getting impatient and almost walked out without buying the thing at all when just at that moment the little boy who was leaning up on the counter with his nose inches away from my jacket sneezed all over everything!  I roll my eyes.  He looks up at me "disculpe senora es de usted?"  I nod.  He looks truly sorry and I couldn't have been mad at him for all the world. 

Don't worry kid, I was going to wash it anyway.

I'm off to Los Andes again for another exciting adventure with HPH Chile.  Have a good day everyone!

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

bad day.

I had kind of a shitty day today.  I was already exhausted when I woke up this morning.  I'm working 12 hour days, so that kind of explains that, but I went anyway once again to Los Andes and my back hurt because it's that time of the month and I had cramps and my neck hurt because I slept on it wrong and I was really hungry because last night I got in so late I was too tired to cook anything more than scrambled eggs for dinner and this morning I didn't have time for breakfast and I was annoyed that I couldn't find any decent cafe on my route to the bus station where I could just pick up an empanada, nobody had empanadas or any kind of hot food for breakfast so I bought a cheese sandwich that was literally bread and cheese only, and it was that icky super processed white bread and I ate that on the bus and felt miserable.

So when I got there to Los Andes (it's about an hour and fifteen minutes from the station) I wasn't in the greatest mood.  That doesn't help when one has to deal with someone like Don Mario, my guide who is currently driving me nuts.  He's a very nice man, I have to say that.  He's got a good heart.  He means well.  He's very kind.  He's just ... I don't know, he's just old and stubborn and not very good at working with other people and especially not foreigners.  He wants to do things his way and he's not very cooperative.  He wanted (wants) to take me around and show me the houses where the people on my list live which sounded like a very nice thing at first until I figured out that what he meant by taking me around to the houses is that we go and knock on the door and he says "here is this student from the US she's here to do an interview and we want you to co-operate with her and can you attend to her right now"?!  That's what he says!  While meanwhile I die of embarrassment!  Or actually what I do (or what I've learned to do is) I butt in and try to be more diplomatic about things, a little less demanding.  I say: "hi, what he means is that I'm here to present myself and let you know what I'm doing".  And then I ask if there is a time when I could come by and we could sit down for an hour or so and talk and it doesn't have to be right this instant.

So the result is I'm luchando with this man, struggling with him.  Because I need him to show me the houses because they didn't give me the directions or the telephone numbers of any of the families and so I'm dependent on him to take me there initially.  But I also need him to not be so demanding and also to not wait on me while I do interviews.  His idea is that we show up at a family's house and he introduces me, they attend to me right away while he waits outside!  That's not my idea.  My idea is that he shows me the houses, I present myself to the family and ask for an appointment to come by later and talk to them by myself without making Don Mario wait for me out in the street!  I don't know why he insists on doing it his way.  It's a pain for him to have to wait sometimes for house and it's bothersome for me to feel like I don't want to leave him waiting so I hurry through the interview. 

Yes, I've told him this but we don't seem to be able to communicate very well the two of us.  He says one thing and does another.  So today when I arrived in a bad mood and he told me that not only should I be paying his bus fares to get to all these places we're going to but I should also be buying him lunch, I just had it.  I couldn't stand it anymore.  I was really upset.  He works for Habitat and I work for Habitat and I don't see why his lunches should have to come out of my Habitat money which is running out and isn't going to cover all my own expenses as it is.  I am working 12 hours a day and am spending $10 every day just on bus passes to and from Los Andes and my own lunches aren't covered by the Habitat money by the way, plus I don't even want him around in the first place and he can't buy his own damn lunch??!!  I mean I hate to be so gringo about this but it's not about the money, I just think that is so rude.  To expect someone to buy you things!  It's not the culture, 'cause I know you're all thinking "oh, you have to understand the culture", bullshit, this is not about Chilean culture this is about one old man who is just rude.  Period.

But what's worse is that did I say any of that?  No.  Well, it's probably good that I didn't but neither did I tell him I was not going to buy his lunches.  I just told him that I didn't know that was my responsibilty.  And actually because of the stupid crappy cheese sandwich I had on the bus I was starving so I suggested that before we go out and start work we go eat first and I bought his lunch for him!  I wasn't pissed off the whole time, we actually had a nice normal conversation over the meal but when I got home tonight and talked to some other people in the office here they told me that no, I wasn't responsible for buying his lunches and now I'm pissed. 

The other thing that is bothering me is that we tried to go to this really far away community where I need to talk to two families.  So we go --and we can't call first because oh, no, the office doesn't have the phone numbers of the families.  "So how do you get in touch with them if you need to?" I asked "Oh we just go and knock on the door".  Even though they might live an hour away!  Ok so we go try to go to this community and we travel about an hour and get to the plaza and we're waiting for another bus to take us to the neighborhood which is even farther away and we're waiting and we're waiting and finally this woman asked us where were were going and we told her and she said there are no buses that go there except at night!  He didn't even know that!  He had no idea.  So we gave up and he was going to go back home and he suggested I try going by this other house again to see if the family was home yet and I said nope. I'm going back to Santiago.  See ya.

Not one interview.  $10 on bus fare and what got accomplished?  Nothing.  Well not nothing.  I did manage to get the actual physical addresses of six families.  So that's it.  No more Don Mario for me. 
I'm going alone tomorrow!

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Sunday update

Don_mario_sm Ok, so I haven't posted in a few days.  That means I've been busy.  I did five interviews yesterday.  Things are going better.  I was starting to get worried that I was falling behind.  What happened was that I discovered that in this second project the families are a lot more spread out.  In Casablanca it was was a single community and I just went door to door.  Here in Los Andes there are several comunities and I have 2-3 families to interview in each community but the communities are sometimes an hour away from each other!  And they don't have the phone numbers of the families so we just have to go and hope we find them at home.  "We" means me and Don Mario, my guide, pictured above. He's an old mountaineer who works for Habitat in this area.  He shows me the houses and waits while I interview people even though I've told him several times it's not necessary --he waits for hours sometimes! 

Anyway, once I'm there someone in the family usually has a cell phone so if they can't do the interview "al tiro" (right then) and I have to come back another day I can call them to confirm, but so far I haven't had to do that.  The communities are very interesting in and of themselves.  One is a tiny little neighborhood near an abandoned copper mine that closed down about 15 years ago.  Now everyone there works in the agriculture industry.  Once again, temporaries.  The community's so far removed even buses don't really go there!  We got a ride there in a private car but we had to walk back, at least until Don Mario flagged down a man on a donkey cart to give us a ride part of the way, while he chattered on about agriculture and local ecology.  He's very nice and very talkative but he has this way of talking to foreigners as if they're deaf (i.e. very, very loudly!)

So today in spite of there being an alert for the pollution I'm going to venture out again to take pictures.
  Have a good Sunday everyone!

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Chile -que rara eres!

Estacion_central2_psm_1 Ok, time for a lighter post about life in Chile.  I have to write stuff like this about every place I visit, so no offense intended to any of my Chilean readers!   I did it when I was in Guatemala, I did it when I was in Colombia, I did it when I was in Costa Rica and I'm doing it now in Chile.  When you go to another country you will encounter things you just don't understand.  And sometimes they will leave you completely baffled and sometimes they will leave you laughing your ass off, but this is the great part about traveling! 

For example, in Guatemala my friend Nathalie and I would sometimes enter a little restaurante and there would be bags of water hanging on the wall over each table.  We couldn't for the life of us figure out what in the world the bags of water were for.  And they weren't in fancy restaurants.  They'd usually be in those little cafeterias that only have maybe three tables and una senora that goes back and cooks up some rice and beans for you and brings it to you with a bottle of Coke.  So I think we finally found out that they were some contraptions that were intended to keep flies away or something like that!  Anyone else know of this phenomenon?

Anyway, I have to tell you something very unexpected about Chile.  They really like classic rock here. 
I don't think I've heard more Guns n' Roses songs since I was in high school!  I'm on the bus today listening to Edie Brickell and the New Bohemians, Sinead O'Conner and Alanis Morisette.  Sergio, one of the guys who has an apartment in the same house here, asked me if I could translate a song for him.  I said sure, and found myself translating Richard Marx!  It's sooo bad!  Here I was looking forward to being in Latin America again and hearing the latest salsa and Latin pop songs and vallenato and instead I get Guns n' Roses and Richard Marx!

So I was glad when another gringa here who just starting working in the Habitat office and also has a room in this house brought a radio and offered to lend it to me tonight.  I'm finally listening to salsa music again!  I also finally broke down and bought a small heater so my room is no longer like an icebox.   And I have my computer so I am one happy camper here these days.  To me, nearly every day in another country is fascinating just for things like this that one encounters.  Someone oughta write a book!

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Casablanca, Chile

La_toma1sm_1 So this morning on the bus on the way to Casablanca to put in what turned out to be a 14 hour day interviewing, I started thinking about the community there but before I can tell you what I was thinking I have to tell you a bit about Casablanca. 

It's a small city, about the size of Gainesville I'd say, about halfway between Santiago which sits in a bowl of smog near the mountains and Valparaiso which sits in the icy Pacific coast (well, I say icy because I'm here in the wintertime; in summer I'm sure it's completely different). 

Casablanca is very economically depressed (at least the part of it I'm seeing).  There's very little steady employment.  I interviewed 25 people in Villa don Alvaro and never found anyone who had a steady job and a regular paycheck that I can remember.  I can look again but I think I'd remember.  People either work in the vineyards which is mostly during the summer harvest (although some can find work pruning and cleaning the fields in the winter but right now most are unemployed) OR they could theoretically work in one of the three nearby factories (Tres Montes which makes food products, Chile Tabaco which makes all things related to tobacco and this other place that either makes plastic or fake leather products apparently).  I say theoretically they could work in the factories because I only met about 2 people who had jobs in factories and both were also temps.  The Tres Montes factory hires them for 15 days then says ciao!  And they have to wait for a phone call saying they can come back.  If there's work in the vineyards they can go do that but they risk missing the phonecall from the better paying factory job.  Average monthly salary is about $240. 

In Villa Don Alvaro everyone has a subsidized house from the government lives.  Behind the cemetery lies the shantytown where everyone who is still waiting for a subsidized house from the government lives (photos of that too on the flickr site).  Villa don Alvaro lies on the outskirts of the city because it's a relatively new development.  Casablanca is expanding.  Lots of poor people have to live here to work in the vineyards. 

From Villa Don Alvaro, it takes about 15-20 minutes to get to the center of Casablanca, which wouldn't be much of a problem except for the fact that 1.) no one has a car and even the bus is a significant expense and 2.) Villa Don Alvaro doesn't have any of the following:
an elementary school
a high school
any kind of school
a fire department
a police station
a clinic or any type of health care center
a day care center
any sort of supermarket that is not a minimercado (one of those tiny little stores people have in front of their houses that sells Coca-Cola, white bread and laundry detergent.
a church (no, they don't even have a chuch! any church.  en serio.  there's a little chapel though in Santa Barbara the next neighborhood in)

Nothing.  There's nothing there except for minimarkets.  If your kid gets sick you have to put them on the bus for 20 minutes (and that's not counting the time it takes for the bus to get to you; there seems to be only one that does the entire route).  Then when you get there they tell me the consultorio in Casblanca stinks and to get good health care you have to go to Valparaiso.  The other problem is because Casablanca is between Santiago and Valparaiso it's sorta neglected by both cities. If you call the police or an ambulance the call goes first to Valparaiso and then to Casablanca and then they come.  After you're dead.  If it's not raining.

So now that you know all that here's what I was thinking this morning on the bus.  I wonder how hard it would be to get a grant to build a day care center there, put a library in the community center and start a neighborhood garden.  Those three things.  Just to start with you know?  I don't know how you'd get a health clinic out there.  But it seems like it ought to be possible for some NGO to come in and do some community development stuff.   Here's what the people would like:

A day care center that would not only provide a good place for the small kids to go while their parents working their temporary jobs, which also frees up their older siblings to stay in school longer (did I mention the average educational level there is 3rd or 4th grade and many people seem to be functionally illiterate?) but it would also provide a steady job for a least a handful of people in the community, especially the older ladies who find it hard to do agricultural work in their old age. 

A community garden would help because there's a huge empty field right behind the neighborhood that's owned by some dairy farm (I asked) and since 1. people already have lots of knowledge of how to grow things they just lack a space to do it and 2. vegetables are really expensive there and 3. a community garden is a relatively easy thing to start, it seems like that could go a long way to making life better for those who live there.

And a library just because a community that doesn't have a library is barely a community.  And like I said literacy rates are low but they already have some adult education classes going on in the neighborhood center in the evenings.  We need books.  We need rows and rows of books.  Children here grow up without books!  Can you imagine???  We need to line the walls of the community center with books. 

So that's what they need.  Mostly according to them (I came up with the garden idea myself while talking with a local lady).  If anyone felt so inclined this would be a great opportunity for a non-profit.  Like Hogar de Cristo.  I wonder....

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Barb the builder.

Thanks to Eve of Emannuel Mennonite Church who came up with that pun that made me laugh out loud.  I don't know if I can take that title yet but I'm learning.  Poco a poco.  We built the house. 

And what an accomplishment it was because I was the only volunteer who showed up!  So it was just me and two guys who work for Habitat and el maestro Eugenio who got delayed because someone hit his car when he was out buying materials.  So the three of us put up all the outer panels of fibrocemento, the duraboard, which was very difficult to do with so few hands.  The guys nailed a few nails into it to hold the thing in the right place and then I filled in all the gaps (that means LOTS of nailing!) Then they did the roof while I cut the fiberglass insulation and stuffed it into the walls.  By the end of the day we had it mostly done except for the roof and the windows and the interior walls.

It was so much work there was very little time for taking photos but I did manage a few here and there.  You can see them on my flickr account (email me if you need the address).  They're finishing up the details today but I can't be there.  I'm supposed to do a focus group tonight so I have to get ready for that but I want to go back and see it when it's all done and take some more photos.  I'll let you know.

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

House-building 101

So, everyone's asking how the house building went last Saturday.  I say it was nice, even though as I write this this is still no house to speak of yet.  Here's what happened.  We arrived at the sede vecinal, (the community center) in Villa Don Alvaro (the housing project in Casablanca) pretty early in the morning.  There I found out one of the reasons why it was going to be possible to build this house in one day is because they already had most of the panels built (do you call them panels? When they're just the 2x4s all joined up together to make the supporting frame?) and were just finishing up the trusses for the roof.  The city was supposed to have poured the cement floor a couple of days ago, so all we had to do ws put the panels up and the roof on.

The two maestros (master carpenters) were already there.  They let us help finish the trusses.  There's pictures on the flickr account.  Then we loaded the panels up into the truck to take them to the site.  So we start building and it is hardwork for this skinny white girl, la gringita who proves herself better at interviewing people than at hammering nails.  Me and the 12 year old girl who's going to live there with her abuela make a team.  Meaning the maestros give us a project and the two of us plunge ahead with more enthusiasm than construction skill and proceed to make a complete mess of it, until one of the maestros comes back and fixes things for us.  Things proceed in this manner for most of the day.

And despite this, the house gets built.  We have all four walls up, the roof trusses up, even the little pieces that go on top of the trusses to attach the tin roof to is up.  It looks great.  Until el maestro stands back to take a look at the thing.  He frowns.  He pulls out the level.  He frowns again.  Eventually people notice him frowning and grow concerned.  Work gradually comes to a halt and we are all standing around looking at the house and frowning.

It's leaning.  The whole house tilts like the tower of Pisa.  Jokes are made.  Speculations abound.  The floor wasn't level.  Who's responsible for this?  The city people explain that they didn't have a level so they just guesstimated.  El maestro says he shouldn't have assumed and should've checked it.  He is bombared with questions.  Should we leave it?  It's just temporary.  Just until she gets her subsidy.  Less than a year.  So what if it tilts?  But the maestro refuses.  One, it's not safe.  Two, how does this make Habitat for Humanity look to leave a house like this?!  No, he says, it must come down.  All of it?  All of it.  Si.  Hay que disarmarla.  Um, today?  Yes, today.  Take it down.  Today.  Right now. 

So we do.  And the whole process is like the camera going backwards.  Out come the nails.  Down go the trusses.  The worst part was carrying the panels of fibrocemento back to the neighbor's house.  Do you know what fibrocemento is?  It's like cement mixed with cardboard.  It's called Duraboard.  I'd never heard of it before but I know now that it's friggin' heavy.  And there were 30 panels of the stuff.  So we carried them one by one back to the neighbor's house and my arms hurt for two day afterwards!  Also I ripped my new No Sweat sweatshirt on a protruding nail.  All part of the experience!  And at the end of the day we were back to the floor again.  One of the other maestros and some helpers set about making a new ledge around the perimeter of the floor and finish just after dusk.  We will return on Wednesday (tomorrow) to try again.

And that's the first lesson of building a house: the floor is everything!

Photos!

I'm very happy today because I have at least two happy events to share.  The first is that at last I have found a way to download the photos off my camera and onto a computer in the National Office until I can use my laptop again (now hopefully sometime next week).  This is wonderful news because the card was nearly full and I wanted to be able to take pictures tomorrow.  I'll tell you why in the subsequent post. 

The second happy event is that I have finally remembered the username and password to my Flickr account so that I can upload those photos and y'all can see what I've been talking about all this time!  So if you know me and have the info you need to see my photos on Flickr, go see what Santiago, Chilean housing projects and Habitat houses look like.  There's lots of other things too.  Some of the things that grow around here.  A plant sacred to the Mapuche Indians.  The house I live in.  Even a bicycle race in the countryside.  The only thing I still can't do with the photos is make them small enough to post here on the blog.  This computer doesn't seem to have any photo editing program that I can see.

So I am a happy camper today, sitting in front of the heater in the warm office, happily typing away.  More to come!

Friday, June 09, 2006

Graffiti

There is a grafiti there in the housing projects of Casablanca, Chile that has caught my eye.  I walk by it every day on my way to do interviews.  I took a photo of course but like I said I can't post anything until I get the powercord to my laptop and can work from my own computer again (it should come next week and when it does, expect a new photo to accompany this post). 

Anyway, the grafiti says "No es solo de ver las cosas, hay que vivir para contarlas".  More or less something like that.  "It's not enough to see things, you have to live to tell them".  And the first day I saw that was my first day visiting there and we had been to the shantytown near the highway where the woman's house burned down and then we had come here to the housing projects to see the Habitat projects.   

The housing projects.  To give you a sense of the place until I can post some photos I will tell you that they are sorta like the kind of government housing projects from the  70s you would see in an innercity in the US.  Rows and rows of indentical concrete block buildings, plain and rather dreary and accompanied by empty sandlots where a few pathetic blades of grass grow around the base of trees then give up.  There is maybe one or two very old and often broken playsets for the children.  You walk over potholed streets and broken sidewalks that sometimes disappear altogether and turn into dirt paths.  You step over a dead rat.  The stray dogs, wet and trembling from the cold rain, watch cautiously until you are out of strike zone then resume their courtship of whatever female is in heat.  And the whole site is made sadder still by the weather which is cold and rainy and gray.

The thing I think is interesting about the graffiti is that at first glance you think that it's just telling you to survive.  That it is necessary to survive this brutal world of ours.  But then like all great poetry, another layer opens up: it's not enough just to live, you have to live FOR THE TELLING. 

What would that mean to live to tell the tale?  That not only do you survive but your life then is changed.  It has a different propósito -a different purpose.  Before you see the thing, you just lived.  But now, the thing is in you, it's part of your life.  Now you live FOR the telling, you live FOR the story.  Which can mean a lot more than just telling it literally and it certainly means more than just surviving.  Es un proósito.

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

How to build a house in 2 weeks

On my first day out in the field I accompanied Loreto, my main contact person here in Habitat para la Humanidad (HPH) Chile as she did some errands in Casablanca, which is a poor little town about an hour outside of the city.  It doesn't seem to have much to offer people in terms of work.  The main employment seems to be temporary agricultural workers who work in the vineyards between here and Santiago.  That work is only available in the summer which means right now a lot of people are unemployed.

The first place we went was to the mayor's office where we met one of the real heroes of this country: Danilo Castillo.  He's a social worker for the city.  He works very closely with Habitat to match up needy families (in this case, those who are getting housing subsidies from the government but need an expansion -a second floor with more space- provided by HPH). 

Continue reading "How to build a house in 2 weeks" »

Thursday, June 01, 2006

Santiago de Chile

So what to tell you about Santiago?  Well, it was a very long trip here.  6 hours from Panama (where I had a bit of a layover because there are no direct flights from San Jose).  It's winter of course, but so far it seems equivalent to a Florida winter to me.  They say though that it'll get colder.  People talk about global warming a lot, (remember that this country has a hole in the ozone layer right over the bottom of it so it makes sense they take global warming here very seriously) and say that the winters are milder because of that.

Also there's a lot of contamination.  It's a very polluted city.  Second only to Mexico City in terms of air quality.  It's got the classic "city in a bowl" problem.  You can actually see the pollution.  The air looks like it has a film on it.  It's not clear even on a sunny day.  Very sad because otherwise you'd have a great view of the snow covered Andes from here.  And apparently they are not worried much about their lungs because a lot of people smoke.

The most exciting thing for me is walking around the city, which I have a lot of time to do in these first few days since things won't really get started until Friday and Saturday.  It's a very European looking city.  I haven't taken pictures yet cause I'm waiting until I feel more comfortable walking around with a camera but I'll post some soon.  There're some great shots waiting just right in my neighborhood, including a sign which advertises "Freedom for sale here" (Freedom being some brandname apparently).  The neighborhood is somewhat upper class.  I guess that explains the price of the "room" I'm staying in (see previous post) but it's close enough to walk to the office so it's fine by me.

It's very expensive here.  Prices of things seem about comparable to in the US (though maybe not a big city in the US).  I spent $4 on lunch today.

Oh and the students are protesting!  Nothing makes me feel better about a country than seeing a little civic action!  Good for them!  They are public school students (mostly though a few private schools including the one the President's daughter attends are supporting them) and they are protesting the rise in the cost of public education.  They say a good public education should remain within reach of everyone.  So they have taken over their schools.  Taken over in the sense of a sit in or a sleep in.  They are occupying the buildings while they are negotiating with the government.  Yesterday was something like Education Day and the protests were bigger and there were "clashes" downtown.  Big manifestations in front of the National Library.  Posters of Victor Jara, slogans saying things like education for everyone, we are the future.  The police came in their armoured carriers and launched teargas and used water guns on them.  There were some students hurt but many public officals publically disapproved of them and called for investigations into the use of excessive force by the "carabineros" (police).  I think the students have a lot of support too.  The media I've seen seem sympathetic and lots of passersby drop money in their donation boxes.

Someone here asked me what I thought of all this and I said, (carefully 'cause it's not my country) that I felt like it was a good thing for any country that has passed through a long period of dictatorship that people are organized and active.  It shows that democracy here is alive and well, the students are active participants in politics and civil society is healthy.  I'm reading a new history of Chile during the Allende years that goes into some new details that have come out about the role foreign governments played in his overthrow (not just the US) and it starts out by talking about the particular kind of socialist that Allende was and all the different political parties that existed back then and the split between the communists and the socialists and the christian democrats.  Very interesting.  Anyway, it's interesting to be in a country that has such a history of social action.  I would like to sit down and talk with some elders about what life was like for them back then, how they survived the Pinochet years and what they think of Bachelet now.  What stories they could tell us!   Listen to your elders, especially those who have been part of the struggle.  They have seen darker days than us and help us keep the faith during these last years of US imperialism.

Hasta la victoria!

Monday, May 29, 2006

Santiago, dormitorios, Habitat and impact studies

Hey everyone, this is barb posting now from the beautiful city of Santiago de Chile.  I got here Saturday night and I found my new living quarters for the next two months.  Let's just say this, if I ever spend time in prison this will be good preparation.  The room is literally the size of a prison cell in the U.S.  Meaning I can't exactly touch both walls with my arms out-stretched but I can if I lean a bit each way.  It's that small!  It's a room that fits in the space they carved out underneath a staircase.  But it does have internet and a private bathroom.  So it's like being in jail with internet access.  And it's in a great neighborhood!  I can walk to the office.

Things are going in the typical latin american way: very slowly.  Not much is happening.  Tengan patiencia.  This is my first day in la oficina and the person who is charged with showing me around is in a meeting for most of the day.  The morning we spent running errands which was okay because it involved seeing the city and the ministeria de vivienda (dept of housing) whose offices all had brand new portraits of la Presidenta -Michele Bachelet!  I'm not exactly sure when things will really get going here.  I'm waiting for final versions of our study instruments (the interview and survey questions) from the other team members and then I have to try them out on someone here to see if the language we used in the instruments works here in Chile.  Then I can go out and start interviewing people. 

Oh, right! I forgot I haven't told you what we're studying yet.  Well, it went like this, we all got there to Costa Rica thinking we were going to study the impact of housing on other areas of people's lives beyond just the techo (roof) because that's what the voluntarios did last year in Costa Rica and they told us they wanted us to replicate that study in these four other countries (Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador and Brasil). Pero, no salió asi.  It didn't turn out like that.  They want us to do something entirely different.  So we are developing a pilot study to see if Habitat is reaching all of their target population and if not, who is falling through the cracks and what can they do to reach those people? 

It's still an impact study, just a different kind of impact study.  It seems to me that Habitat has focused so much lately on being sustainable that they are looking only for people who they think have the capacity to actually pay back their housing loan eventually.  They have some programs where they don't worry about that so much such as in Indonesia after the tsunami, but those are emergency programs for the most part.  Most countries the national offices is working towards sustainability.  In Chile here they are working with the government who subsidizes poor families, so it's like a collaborative effort. 

I'm going to three or more different project areas, 2 probably within a day's drive of Santiago and the other maybe in Atacama -the desert area in the north.  Hopefully by the end of the week.  Until then wish mucho suerte con the Chilean accent which is causing me much difficulty.  Hasta entonces!

Monday, May 22, 2006

Fincas Organicas

Cerditosm_1 So the farm turned out to be pretty cool.  I'm actually glad it wasn't a typical touristy thing to do.  I did all that ten years ago; I didn't really *need* to see another volcano, did I?  Though we drove right by the entrance to Irazu, the one closest to the city that was all covered in clouds when I went before so I kinda wanted to pop in just to see because it was a clear  morning but we were already late. 

Speaking of which, we drove by Irazu because we got lost about six times on the way.  Manuel kept asking for directions and people kept sending us off on the wrong road.  Isias kept up a steady stream of chatter the whole way; (he’s really warmed up to me now).  And then with all this zipping up and down mountains, the dog threw up in the car.  More accurately he threw up all over Betti who was none too happy with how things were going so far.  Apparently Pequeño has a history of carsickness so Isiais was instructed by his mom to try to keep his head out the window (!!) so the whole way I’m watching this eight year old trying to hold onto a squirmy dog who’s half out a window that’s open plenty wide enough for him to fall out of if Isias loses his grip or gets scared he’s gonna vomit and drops him.  After about five minutes of imagining this poor child traumatized by seeing his pooch get splattered all over the highway I suggested that maybe this wasn’t working out so well and could I offer up a plastic bag as an alternative?, whereupon Betti thanked me for the bag but didn’t take it, took the dog on her own lap where about forty-five minutes later he ralphed.  She threatened to leave the dog at the farm if we ever got there.  Isiais said no.  She said he could either have the dog or her which was it? and Isias replied “the dog”.

I found all of this immensely entertaining.  But, unfortunately, we eventually found the farm. 

No, I’m kidding; the farm was pretty cool.  It turned out to be an organic farm too so I immediately a.) felt a kinship there with hippy Gainesvillians and b.) thought of about half a dozen people who'd be appreciating the experience way more than I was.  Not to say I didn't think it was all very cool: they had earthworm beds, co-operative crops and a natural insecticide plant they called guacamayo (which actually is the word for macaw, you know, like the big parrots? but I forgot to ask why they called it that). 

Col_uchuvas And I re-discovered this fruit that I loved when I was in Colombia.  Don Ricardo the farmer there said that it’s called passion fruit in English but no these are not passion fruit.  I think we call maracuya passion fruit.  These are different.  We don’t really have these things up there, not even in the exotic foods section of the grocery store.  They’re about the size of muscadine grapes but they’re yellow.  And they come encased in a little paper bonnet.  (I’m sorry, believe it or not, it didn’t occur to me to take a photo but I found this one on the web!) Anyway I can’t believe I forgot about them because I used to eat these things by the bowlful.  And now I can’t even remember the Spanish word for the things so I can’t google it and show you a picture either. I remember!  They're uchuvas! They look like they’re a member of the nightshade family (ask me how I know that!  I don’t know that!  I’m not a plant person!  Which is all the more reason that if I’m right, y’all really should give me credit for being “muy de pilas” [sharp])!

Anyway, here’s the best part about the farm: they have had volunteers from abroad there in the past.  Not a lot; it’s not a huge farm, you know; but a few.  Enough for them to have a guest book, though most of the signers were from Costa Rica (they get help from a couple government ecological and environmental programs so visitors come out to check on things and all).  Don Ricardo and his daughter take stuff to the farmer’s market in San Jose so maybe people find them there too but the point is I have a question for my Gainesville friends: anyone interested in working on an organic farm in Costa Rica in exchange for free room and board?  It’s really nice.  Check out the photos.  And what’s the name of that network y’all have Willing Workers on Organic Farms or something?  I couldn’t remember.  But Randy, Jen, Sand, Musa... y’all should check it out.  I have their emails if you’re interested.

Remember how I said we were going to a farm because Manuel and Betti have a fondness for them?  Well, it’s a pretty serious fondness for Betti –she mentioned this 20 hectare farm her uncle has in Paraguay and how they should go down there and live on it.  Only she doesn’t have any particular knowledge of agriculture.  So that’s when you get these kids from up north to come down and work the land in exchange for food and lodging.  Later, on the way back she talked for half an hour about the idea.  Uno nunca sabe.  Maybe next year I'll be asking if anyone wants to go to Paraguay!

Sunday, May 21, 2006

Sunday in Costa Rica

El_paisaje3sm Hey y'all... thanks to everyone who submitted something to the Carnival of the Liberals this time.  GIL has been so busy reading everything that he hasn't even had time to write me down here in San Jose (hint, hint!). 

That's okay because I'm having a decent weekend reading some housing studies online and getting ready for tomorrow.  Yesterday I got up early to take photos in the morning light.  Here, they are in the "invierno", their winter, which is the rainy season.  I put invierno in quotes because it actually gets pretty hot here during the day just before the skies cloud up and the afternoon rains begin.  When I got home we (the family I'm staying with and I) went to the farmer's market where I took more photos.  If you have access to my flickr account you can see them.  If you don't and I know you, you can email me and I'll send you the information.  (I took the link down for security reasons when the Nazis invaded awhile ago.) 

The family I'm staying with is from Paraguay.  He works for Habitat and she sells cake decorating materials from Argentina (which is apparently famous for its deserts -did you know that? and you can't really get good cake decorating materials here).  Anyway, they have worked in Paraguay, Ecuador and now here in Costa Rica.  They're very laid-back.  They have an eight-year old son Isais who is very smart and talkative and a small white poodle named Pequeno.  Today we're going to visit a farm.  Why?  Well, they like farms.  They're city people so they think farms are cool.  They said they have visited farms in all the countries they've lived.  I am going to bring the camera of course and take lots of photos of los animales.  *shrug*  To tell you the truth, I'm kinda bored.  If I was going to visit anywhere it'd probably be a volcano but I'm not really here as a tourist so I can't complain. Asi la vida.  Que les vaya bien!

 

Friday, May 19, 2006

San Jose...

San_jose1sm_1 ...has got to be my favorite big city on the planet.  The air here is so cool and refreshing!  The lady whose house I'm rooming in says it's because of all the vegetation and because it rains nearly every afternoon.  I already went out walking a bit (though not as much as I'd normally like because my ankle's been bothering me the past couple of weeks) and I found this little park on a hill that had a good view of the mountains so I took this photo.  Que bonito!

It's nice because yesterday on the plane I was wondering if I am not getting tired of traveling.  In my 20s backpacking was great.  Now, I'm not so sure.  It's kind of a headache.  Last night the plane was two hours late and I didn't get in until 11pm Florida time.  I was so exhausted.  I told Manuel and Bettina (the couple I'm staying with) that I would probably sleep in but when I came out this morning it was 7:30!  Anyway I don't think I'm going to do much these next coupla days except sleep, read, go for walks and take pictures.  Monday we start working.